Magnetizing Guide – Dark Eldar Talos/Cronos

This is a modelling guide explaining how I converted the Games Workshop, Dark Eldar Talos/Cronos, so it can be  also used as both a TalosPain Engine and a Cronos Parasite Engine.

In this guide I’ll be using a lot of magnets, using magnets is probably the easiest way of making interchangeable components. Blue Demon  magnets are a great range

First you need to divide the model into several components, I’ll go through each one individually explaining where the magnets go. I’ll assume you stick the magnets in place, in the right orientation (relative to adjacent components)

1 – HIPS – Heres the first component, it will be glued to the rest of the body, but i’m describing it as a separate component as the magnets have to be attached before it is fully assembled. Cut away at the “bottom” and “back” attachment areas creating holes, insert a piece of greenstuff for the magnets to rest against, I used a large magnet for the tail as this is quite a large piece.

2 – WEAPONS – The left weapon hand can be interchangeable, there are a few option, but only 2 arm plates. Chose the 2 weapons you want to change between, and construct them. Drill a hole where the piece meets the upper arm, and insert a magnet.

3 – BODY – Build the body, and attach the hip piece, before fixing on the carapace, cut away the top piece of the neck, and glue in one magnet, this will allow the helmet to be attached. Drill into each arm socket and glue in a magnet.

4 – HELMET – Nice easy one, put a small magnet into each helmet. Its best to use the helmets without holes in, as i found out when i super-glued one to my finger.

5 – TAIL – A simple magnet on each end will do, you may need to cut a little plastic away to make a flat surface.

6 – GUNS – Glue in a magnet into the back of the gun, leave off the cover on the top of the gun as this is interchangeable. it just slots in so no magnet is required.

7 – CRONOS ARMS – Attach a magnet at the shoulder joint of each arm.

8 – LEFT ARM – This is a piece that must join two other components, so a magnet at each end is required.

9 – SOUL THING – Quite a small surface to attach the magnet here, so a small strong magnet is needed.

10 – OTHER THING – A weird little component here, I worked out the magnets either side need to be attached so their repelling each other so glue one on, wait for it to dry, then carefully attach the second.

11 – TENTACLES – You need quite a strong magnet here.

12 – RIGHT ARM – Another easy one, a single magnet at the shoulder joint.

And there we are, your Talos, can now also be a Cronos!

Pick up the Dark Eldar Talos Pain Engine from Big Orbit Games at 22% off*.

*Accurate as of 27th June 2011.

This is a modelling guide for the Warhammer fantasy Tomb Kings, Khemri Warsphinx/Necrosphinx. We will go through some of the things they don’t show you in the GW instructions, I’ll explain how to magnetize the model so you can switch between all the options available in the kit!

You will need :

This is an excellent model, and seems like its built to make the parts swappable, there’s only 2 small pieces that are hard to magnetize, two small decorative wings that attach either side of the warsphinx’s waist and the necrosphinx’s neck. I just stuck these to the warsphinx as you dont notice their absence from the necrosphinx.

I started by building the model into several large pieces, then attaching magnets etc.

Part 1 – The Body

Build each leg, also make the tail as shown in the instructions but leave off the end of the tail. To magnetize it simply drill a small hole into the end of the tail, you may need to widen it with a sharp craft knife. Then using superglue, insert a magnet, you will need a small magnet, maybe 3mm diameter.

I then continued to build the whole body, although you might find it easier to build it in two half’s while putting in the next magnet.

Now drill a hole just above the notch in the back of the model and widen it with a craft knife so it’s a little larger than your magnet, I used 6mm diameter magnets, they need to be quite large here to keep the wings attached.

Press a lump of greenstuff inside the body so that it covers the hole you just made.

Now using super glue press a magnet into the hole, push it well in, meaning it is a few mm below the level of the back. You need to do this as the magnet on the adjoining piece will be connect slightly inside the body.

Part 2 – The Neck

This is a really important piece, make sure you attach the magnet before gluing this piece to the body.

Simply drill a small hole in the centre of the depression, widen this with a craft knife.

Attach some greenstuff to the other side for support, then using superglue fix the magnet into the hole.

Part 3 – The Tail

There are two tail options, these will attach to the end of the tail. Make sure to get the magnets the correct way round!

Again drill small holes into each piece, widening with a craft knife, and glue in small magnets.

Again, I used 3mm diameter this time.

Part 4 – The Howdah

Completely build the Howdah, I’ll go through attaching the crew later.

Turn it upsidown, attach a lump of green stuff to support the next magnet, glue a magnet to this green stuff and then rest the howdah onto the body so the magnets line up.

Part 5 – Necrosphinx Head

You can make this in two pieces, as shown; the neck cover doesn’t need any magnets.

Cut a small hole into the base of the neck, push in some more greenstuff and glue in another magnet.

Part 6 – Warsphinx Wings

I thought this part would be difficult to magnetize when I first saw it, but luckily it was really easy. The wings are connected by a large plate, simply glue a magnet on the underside of the plate and line this up with the magnet on the body.

Part 7 – Warsphinx Torso

Another easy piece, build it exactly as in the instructions.

Press a lump of greenstuff inside the torso, and glue in a magnet, make sure it lines up with the magnet in the neck piece.

Other Components

Lich Priest: Drill a small hole into the priest’s foot, glue in a small piece of paperclip. Put the base together, and drill a small hole into it, and the howdah. Now you can swap him from base to howdah!

Banner – I pinned this piece too, its pretty fragile, and its handy to remove it during transport.

Crew – Finally Glue pins into each of the crew’s feet, and drill holes into the base of the howdah.

The model is now fully customizable, you can swap all the pieces to use it as whatever you need for each battle!

This guide was written by Owen from Painted Legions, visit his blog for more great guides: Painted Legions

 

Magnets, the magic little objects that stop gravity spoiling all our hobby fun. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes from flexible sheets, to 3mm diameter disks. Never used them before? well maybe you should read this!

MOVEMENT TRAYS

Have you got a banner bearer? Holding out his arm in a heroic fashion… sun glinting on his battle standard…. and then falling on his face for the 10th time today, because the model is so horribly unbalanced. Well magnets can fix that.

I use Blue Demon Basing Kits, it comes with a flexible magnetic matt that you can cut to size, you can stick this inside your movement tray.

Also included are a set of small magnets, these can be attached to the underside of a models base.

Now its going to take a lot more to knock your banner bearer over, infact you can turn the whole unit upside down with no casualties.

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REPLACEABLE PARTS

Putting a plastic kit together? Stressing over what parts to use? Well why not use all of them! An increasing amount of kits are including many additional parts for all the options the model can carry in game. Make the most out of your model and magnetize the snot outa him!

The basics here are to attach one magnet to the static piece, and another to any interchangeable piece so they attract each other holding the model together instead of using glue. You can even place magnets inside plastic components, they will still attract other magnets through the plastic! Just make sure you get the magnets the right way around to attract each other otherwise they’ll repel each other and that could be embarrassing!

Heres a conversion on the SANGUINARY GUARD kit for detachable arms, I used really small magnets here.

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This is a gun from the DREADKNIGHT kit, allowing detachable barrels. notice one magnet is completely inside the gun body, the other is held in the barrel by green stuff.

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Finally my Ork DEFF DREAD, loadsa weapon options, all magnetized. Very killy!

modelling guide - Magnetizing Conversion with magnets warhammer 40000 (9)

This guide was written by Owen from Painted Legions, visit his blog for more great guides: Painted Legions