News: Android Netrunner Data and Destiny Deluxe Expansion!


Breaking news: Big Orbit Games learnt today at the UK Game Expo that Fantasy Flight Games’ next, and last, deluxe expansion for Android: Netrunner will be called Data and Destiny and that it comes with a nice surprise!

The set will feature the NBN corporation doing what they do, controlling the media and news in their usual style. But as anyone who plays Netrunner knows, there are four Corporation factions but only three Runners. So, who would herald the fourth deluxe expansion? The answer is none of them! Read on…

Data and Destiny will feature 3 Runner identities and each of them will be their own mini-faction! Not much was revealed about how they will work or what their abilities are, unfortunately, but we do know that one of the identities is not a person but rather a sentient virus program. This is a wonderful twist for the game’s last deluxe expansion and hopefully it will bring a whole new aspect to the game.

Sadly we were unable to get any photographs from the presentation, but look out for more information in the following weeks from FFG themselves.

The Army Painter Mega Paint Set review

The Army Painter Mega Paint SetThe Army Painter have, for a long time, been saving wargamers time and effort with their range of colour primers and quick shade dips. Previously only a limited range of brush-on acrylic paints have been available from The Army Painter in the form of their Wargamer Starter Paint Sets.

The release of The Army Painter Mega Paint Set changes things, introducing a fuller range of paints, brush-on inks, and a brush-on matt varnish. The set also comes with a broad selection of brushes.

The Army Painter Mega Paint Set includes:

  • 27 colours
  • 5 metallics
  • 3 Quickshade Inks
  • 1 Matt Varnish
  • Insane Detail brush
  • Detail brush
  • Character brush
  • Regiment brush
  • Small Drybrush
  • Vehicle brush

The boxed set also contains The Army Painter’s 24 page ‘Wargamers Army Painting guide’ which contains a wide range of guides and articles.

The Army Painter Mega Paint Set Review

The Army Painter Mega Paint Set Individual Paint
100% Army Painter Spray Match

At Big Orbit Games, we have been eagerly awaiting the release of a range of brush-on paints from The Army Painter for some time, being big fans of their range of colour spray primers. The Army Painter have taken account of the popularity of their sprays when forming their brush on paint range with an exact match of each of their spray paints represented in their brush-on range. To my mind this represents one of the best reasons to use army painter paints as it makes touching up any over-painted areas a doddle.

On to the paints themselves, The Army Painter have cherry-picked suppliers of each type of paint types, acrylics, metallics & ink washes, this results in a unique range of paints with heavy focus on quality.

  • The acrylics (colours) have a good consistency if well shaken, flowing well and proving a good degree of coverage due to a high concentration of colour pigment. The range of colours available is broad and will meet most hobbyists needs.
  • The inks are not your classic shiny inks, more akin to Games Workshop’s range of washes, these settle into the recesses nicely producing a nice level of graduation.
  • Finally the metallics are produce a convincing metal effect without looking grainy.

All in all the quality of the paints speak for themselves.

On to the brushes, these are comparable in quality to other mainstream hobby brushes, except the small dry brush which, although easy to use due to the 45 degree angle on the bristles does tend to wear quite quickly. One feature of the army painter brushes that I have always found quite useful is the triangular grip, this makes the brush much easier to control, improving painting results.

The Army Painter Mega Paint Set Paints
The Army Painter Mega Paint Box Contents

On to price, I think most of us slightly begrudge spending money on paints and brushes etc, it means less money to spend on models and the £85 RRP of The Army Painter Mega Paint Set seems like quite an investment (although it is only £72.25 – Ed). That said you do get a lot for your money, the brushes alone have an RRP of £21, meaning you get 37 paints, inks & varnishes for the remaining £64, £1.77 each (or £1.51 – Ed), this represents real value for money.


The Army Painter’s Mega Paint Set contains a broad selection of quality paints that has the advantage of working seamlessly with The Army Painter’s range of spray paints.

It comes with a wide enough range of brushes for most wargamers needs.

The Mega Paint Set represents great value for money working out at just £1.77 each, or £1.51 from Big Orbit Games.

The Mega Paint Set scores…

Overall score: 9/10


Painting Guide – Storm of Magic Cockatrice

Here i’ll be painting another really nice model from Games Workshop. Released with the Storm of Magic expansion for Warhammer.

Ill paint it similar to the way it looks on the box, using some plain earthy colours as a base, with much brighter colours as a contrast, it is a magical creature after all.

The painting of the model will be divided into several stages each focusing on a different part of the body, I’ll describe each in detail below!

SKIN – I used a pale, neutral tone here. Starting with a basecoat of KHEMRI BROWN, cover all the cockatrice’s skin, using a slightly lighter tone KOMANDO KAHKI Build up a layer of shading by painting the raised areas. You may need to add a couple of coats as this can be quite a thin pigment. Start Mixing in BLEACHED BONE, and build up the shading to end with an extreme highlight of pure bleached bone.

WINGS – The leathery parts of the cockatrice wings were painted a slightly different shade, I mixed a little BLEACHED BONE with TALLARN FLESH as a basecoat, this makes a nice light fleshy shade. A wash is needed to tone this down a little, and add shading, pure OGRYN FLESH is a little too light for this so mix in a little BAAL RED.

FEATHERS – A vibrant blue was needed for the feathers, i used a shade a little darker than on the box to contrast with the pale flesh tones used so far. Start with a basecoat of REGAL BLUE, you could use ENCHANTED BLUE for a little lighter shade. Start mixing in BLEACHED BONE to the blue, Wetbrush over the feathered areas, picking out raised parts and details. Repeat this process with lighter and lighter shades, ending with a wash of ASURMEN BLUE to draw the shades together.

SCALES – I chose a Bright green shade for the scaly bits, these are mostly on the lower body, but some are on the wings also. Start with a basecoat of DARK ANGELS GREEN, this can be a thin pigment, so some people may want to apply a basecoat of ORKHIDE SHADE first. Next i used a old Games Workshop colour no longer in production, JADE GREEN. Mix this into some DARK ANGELS GREEN, and highlight the scales applying a wetbrush. Finish these areas with a wash of pure THRAKKA GREEN.

BEAK – The beak and feet were painted using a basecoat of TAUSEPT OCHRE, Highlight this by adding a little BLEACHED BONE and painting the raised areas. A wash of GRYPHONNE SEPIA draws these shades together.

DETAILS – The claws were painted a really dark colour, starting with CHAOS BLACK, highlighting through CHARADON GRANITE and BLEACHED BONE. The Tongue was Highlighted from LICHE PURPLE to WARLOCK PURPLE.

This model was really fun to paint, and surprisingly quick too. Hope you all have as much fun as i did!

Check out other painting guides, and reviews on the PAINTED LEGIONS website.

Magnetizing Guide – Dark Eldar Talos/Cronos

This is a modelling guide explaining how I converted the Games Workshop, Dark Eldar Talos/Cronos, so it can be  also used as both a TalosPain Engine and a Cronos Parasite Engine.

In this guide I’ll be using a lot of magnets, using magnets is probably the easiest way of making interchangeable components. Blue Demon  magnets are a great range

First you need to divide the model into several components, I’ll go through each one individually explaining where the magnets go. I’ll assume you stick the magnets in place, in the right orientation (relative to adjacent components)

1 – HIPS – Heres the first component, it will be glued to the rest of the body, but i’m describing it as a separate component as the magnets have to be attached before it is fully assembled. Cut away at the “bottom” and “back” attachment areas creating holes, insert a piece of greenstuff for the magnets to rest against, I used a large magnet for the tail as this is quite a large piece.

2 – WEAPONS – The left weapon hand can be interchangeable, there are a few option, but only 2 arm plates. Chose the 2 weapons you want to change between, and construct them. Drill a hole where the piece meets the upper arm, and insert a magnet.

3 – BODY – Build the body, and attach the hip piece, before fixing on the carapace, cut away the top piece of the neck, and glue in one magnet, this will allow the helmet to be attached. Drill into each arm socket and glue in a magnet.

4 – HELMET – Nice easy one, put a small magnet into each helmet. Its best to use the helmets without holes in, as i found out when i super-glued one to my finger.

5 – TAIL – A simple magnet on each end will do, you may need to cut a little plastic away to make a flat surface.

6 – GUNS – Glue in a magnet into the back of the gun, leave off the cover on the top of the gun as this is interchangeable. it just slots in so no magnet is required.

7 – CRONOS ARMS – Attach a magnet at the shoulder joint of each arm.

8 – LEFT ARM – This is a piece that must join two other components, so a magnet at each end is required.

9 – SOUL THING – Quite a small surface to attach the magnet here, so a small strong magnet is needed.

10 – OTHER THING – A weird little component here, I worked out the magnets either side need to be attached so their repelling each other so glue one on, wait for it to dry, then carefully attach the second.

11 – TENTACLES – You need quite a strong magnet here.

12 – RIGHT ARM – Another easy one, a single magnet at the shoulder joint.

And there we are, your Talos, can now also be a Cronos!

Pick up the Dark Eldar Talos Pain Engine from Big Orbit Games at 22% off*.

*Accurate as of 27th June 2011.

This is a modelling guide for the Warhammer fantasy Tomb Kings, Khemri Warsphinx/Necrosphinx. We will go through some of the things they don’t show you in the GW instructions, I’ll explain how to magnetize the model so you can switch between all the options available in the kit!

You will need :

This is an excellent model, and seems like its built to make the parts swappable, there’s only 2 small pieces that are hard to magnetize, two small decorative wings that attach either side of the warsphinx’s waist and the necrosphinx’s neck. I just stuck these to the warsphinx as you dont notice their absence from the necrosphinx.

I started by building the model into several large pieces, then attaching magnets etc.

Part 1 – The Body

Build each leg, also make the tail as shown in the instructions but leave off the end of the tail. To magnetize it simply drill a small hole into the end of the tail, you may need to widen it with a sharp craft knife. Then using superglue, insert a magnet, you will need a small magnet, maybe 3mm diameter.

I then continued to build the whole body, although you might find it easier to build it in two half’s while putting in the next magnet.

Now drill a hole just above the notch in the back of the model and widen it with a craft knife so it’s a little larger than your magnet, I used 6mm diameter magnets, they need to be quite large here to keep the wings attached.

Press a lump of greenstuff inside the body so that it covers the hole you just made.

Now using super glue press a magnet into the hole, push it well in, meaning it is a few mm below the level of the back. You need to do this as the magnet on the adjoining piece will be connect slightly inside the body.

Part 2 – The Neck

This is a really important piece, make sure you attach the magnet before gluing this piece to the body.

Simply drill a small hole in the centre of the depression, widen this with a craft knife.

Attach some greenstuff to the other side for support, then using superglue fix the magnet into the hole.

Part 3 – The Tail

There are two tail options, these will attach to the end of the tail. Make sure to get the magnets the correct way round!

Again drill small holes into each piece, widening with a craft knife, and glue in small magnets.

Again, I used 3mm diameter this time.

Part 4 – The Howdah

Completely build the Howdah, I’ll go through attaching the crew later.

Turn it upsidown, attach a lump of green stuff to support the next magnet, glue a magnet to this green stuff and then rest the howdah onto the body so the magnets line up.

Part 5 – Necrosphinx Head

You can make this in two pieces, as shown; the neck cover doesn’t need any magnets.

Cut a small hole into the base of the neck, push in some more greenstuff and glue in another magnet.

Part 6 – Warsphinx Wings

I thought this part would be difficult to magnetize when I first saw it, but luckily it was really easy. The wings are connected by a large plate, simply glue a magnet on the underside of the plate and line this up with the magnet on the body.

Part 7 – Warsphinx Torso

Another easy piece, build it exactly as in the instructions.

Press a lump of greenstuff inside the torso, and glue in a magnet, make sure it lines up with the magnet in the neck piece.

Other Components

Lich Priest: Drill a small hole into the priest’s foot, glue in a small piece of paperclip. Put the base together, and drill a small hole into it, and the howdah. Now you can swap him from base to howdah!

Banner – I pinned this piece too, its pretty fragile, and its handy to remove it during transport.

Crew – Finally Glue pins into each of the crew’s feet, and drill holes into the base of the howdah.

The model is now fully customizable, you can swap all the pieces to use it as whatever you need for each battle!

This guide was written by Owen from Painted Legions, visit his blog for more great guides: Painted Legions


Another awesome model here from GAMES WORKSHOP, the Warhammer Tomb Kings Khemri Warsphinx. A long awaited model first introduced in another GW game WARMASTER. And we’r not disappointed!

On to the painting, I went for a colour scheme as close to the box as possible, only a few minor changes i thought looked better. Hope you like painting GOLD!

1 – Undercoat! Always undercoat your model, I use spray paint as it gives a smoother finish. The Warsphix was under-coated using GAMES WORKSHOP CHAOS BLACK SPRAYPAINT


I went for a more shaded look, as the marble effect on the box takes soooo long to do properly, I’m sure I’ll do that effect in another guide.

1 – Start by painting all the skin an a 50/50 DARK ANGELS GREEN/CHAOS BLACK mix

2 – Paint over this with pure DARK ANGELS GREEN, leaving only the recesses unpainted.

Tomb Kings Khemrian Warsphinx / Necrosphinx - Step 1Tomb Kings Khemrian Warsphinx / Necrosphinx - Step 2

3 – Highlight this with a 50/50 DARK ANGELS GREEN/SNOT GREEN mix

4 – Extreme highlight of SNOT GREEN

Tomb Kings Khemrian Warsphinx / Necrosphinx - Step 3Tomb Kings Khemrian Warsphinx / Necrosphinx - Step 4


I went for an antique gold effect here, highlighting all the way to a faded silvery gold.

1 – Paint all the gold areas TIN BITZ

2 – Wetbrush (a damper drydrush) over with SHINING GOLD, Leaving TIN BITS showing in the recesses

3 – Highlight with a 75/25 mix of SHINING GOLD/MITHRIL SILVER

Tomb Kings Khemrian Warsphinx / Necrosphinx - Step 5Tomb Kings Khemrian Warsphinx / Necrosphinx - Step 6


I think the plain gold wings look a little dull on the original, so I decided to do them white!

1 – Paint the wings SHADOW GREY

2 – Highlight this with FORTRESS GREY

3 – Add an extreme highlight of pure SKULL WHITE

Tomb Kings Khemrian Warsphinx / Necrosphinx - Step 7

Tomb Kings Khemrian Warsphinx / Necrosphinx - Step 8Tomb Kings Khemrian Warsphinx / Necrosphinx - Step 9


Again I went for an antique effect, i think it suits the model. also a slightly goldy tint to help it fit in with the huge amounts of gold already on the model.

1 – Paint with CHAINMAIL

2 – Wash over this with GRYPHONNE SEPIA

3 – Finally Highlight again with CHAINMAIL

Tomb Kings Khemrian Warsphinx / Necrosphinx - Step 10Tomb Kings Khemrian Warsphinx / Necrosphinx - Step 11


The final stages of the model, some little details you might want to change some of these to fit your army’s colour scheme.

SCARABS – there are a few scarabs dotted around the model, i painted these 50/50 CHAOS BLACK/HAWK TERQUOISE and highlighted with pure HAWK TERQUOISE





Tomb Kings Khemrian Warsphinx / Necrosphinx - Step 11Tomb Kings Khemrian Warsphinx / Necrosphinx - Step12

You can pick up the Tomb Kings Khemrian Warsphinx / Necrosphinx on Big Orbit Games, along with all the paints in this article.

This guide was written by Owen from Painted Legions, visit his blog for more great guides: Painted Legions

Magnets, the magic little objects that stop gravity spoiling all our hobby fun. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes from flexible sheets, to 3mm diameter disks. Never used them before? well maybe you should read this!


Have you got a banner bearer? Holding out his arm in a heroic fashion… sun glinting on his battle standard…. and then falling on his face for the 10th time today, because the model is so horribly unbalanced. Well magnets can fix that.

I use Blue Demon Basing Kits, it comes with a flexible magnetic matt that you can cut to size, you can stick this inside your movement tray.

Also included are a set of small magnets, these can be attached to the underside of a models base.

Now its going to take a lot more to knock your banner bearer over, infact you can turn the whole unit upside down with no casualties.

Coin & Magnets modelling guide - Magnetizing Conversion with magnets warhammer 40000 (2) modelling guide - Magnetizing Conversion with magnets warhammer 40000 (3) modelling guide - Magnetizing Conversion with magnets warhammer 40000 (4)


Putting a plastic kit together? Stressing over what parts to use? Well why not use all of them! An increasing amount of kits are including many additional parts for all the options the model can carry in game. Make the most out of your model and magnetize the snot outa him!

The basics here are to attach one magnet to the static piece, and another to any interchangeable piece so they attract each other holding the model together instead of using glue. You can even place magnets inside plastic components, they will still attract other magnets through the plastic! Just make sure you get the magnets the right way around to attract each other otherwise they’ll repel each other and that could be embarrassing!

Heres a conversion on the SANGUINARY GUARD kit for detachable arms, I used really small magnets here.

modelling guide - Magnetizing Conversion with magnets warhammer 40000 (5)modelling guide - Magnetizing Conversion with magnets warhammer 40000 (6)

This is a gun from the DREADKNIGHT kit, allowing detachable barrels. notice one magnet is completely inside the gun body, the other is held in the barrel by green stuff.

modelling guide - Magnetizing Conversion with magnets warhammer 40000 (7)modelling guide - Magnetizing Conversion with magnets warhammer 40000 (8)

Finally my Ork DEFF DREAD, loadsa weapon options, all magnetized. Very killy!

modelling guide - Magnetizing Conversion with magnets warhammer 40000 (9)

This guide was written by Owen from Painted Legions, visit his blog for more great guides: Painted Legions

Grey Knights Dreadknight Painting Guide

I found the main problem with this model, is the sheer amount of silver! Using different techniques on areas to vary the shades of silver is a must, very few other details, the trickiest bit is probably the sword.. there’s so many ways to paint swords, research a few if you don’t like what i did.


First undercoat the model in black paint, this can be painted on with a brush, but i find this leaves an un-even finish. For the professional look I always recommend using a spray-paint, the one i used here is ARMY PAINTER BLACK. This easily gets into all the little nooks, and gives a great painting surface.


This first section shows you how to paint all the functional metal pieces (not armour plates)

1 – Paint all metal pieces in BOLTGUN METAL, you don’t have to be too neat at this stage, as its the first colour on, and we’ll be painting all the other areas different colours.
2 – Cover all these areas with a wash mix, 50/50 BADAB BLACK & DEVLAN MUD. This makes the metal look more worn, and the brown
shade makes a good contrast to the silver/blue armour.
3 – using MITHRIL SILVER, edge highlight any sharp edges of the metal, its best to do the upper edges, as it looks like light reflecting from the corners. Also paint any piston parts in this colour, there are a few hidden on the back of the legs too.
4 – Paint over pistons, with a light wash of BADAB BLACK.


This is the grey knights trademark, so it needs to look right, we’re going for a bright silver with a bluish tint.

1 – Paint all the armour plates MITHRIL SILVER
2 – Wash all the armour in a 60/40 mix of ASURMEN BLUE / BADAB BLACK. Only a light wash and try to make it as even as possible, so there aren’t patches of wash in the wrong places, its ok to leave little pools around rivets and the in corners, not on the smooth surfaces.
3 – Edge highlight the corners of the plates again with MITHRIL SILVER


Break up those large silvery areas with some nice shiny gold bits, anything that looks like an embellishment is good to paint gold.

1 – Paint with TIN BITZ, this is a great base for any gold/bronze colour.
2 – Wetbrush over these areas with SHINING GOLD ( Wetbrushing is a technique verry much like drybrushing…. but not surprisingly
you leave more paint on the brush, gently moving over the raised areas highlighting them)
3 – Apply a lighter wetbrush of a 70/30 mix of SHINING GOLD / MITHRIL SILVER, further highlighting these parts.
4 – Finish with a light wash of GRYPHONNE SEPIA, this blends the gold colours together finishing it nicely.


This section covers the white and red areas, white can be tricky to do, but this technique is pretty easy if you take your time.

Parts like the guns, are just painted red, while the heraldry plates are first painted white, with red details added over the top, as this is allot easier than white over red.

1 – Using ASTRONOMICAN GREY paint any areas you want to be white (heraldry plates)
2 – Mix a 80/20 SKULL WHITE/ASTRONOMICAN GREY and paint over these plates, this should look almost white. pure white plates never
quite look right, as you have no brighter colour to highlight with!
3 – Paint any red areas with MECHRITE RED, I freehanded the lines on the white plates, there’s an easy way to do this…
start by painting on a thin line, slowly going over it repeatedly, thickening the line at some points to straighten it out
eventually the line should be straight, and a good thickness.
4 – Highlight the red areas with BLOOD RED


Not many details on this model, the main one is the sword blade, so I’ll go through a few quickly.

BLACK – Paint black areas with a mix of CHAOS BLACK, with a tiny bit of ADEPTUS BATTLEGREY. So its not quite pure black, highlight this with pure ADEPTUS BATTLEGREY.

BONE – There’s a few skulls and scrolls that can be done this colour. Paint DHENEB STONE, wash with DEVLAN MUD, then highlight with BLEACHED BONE

SWORD – The blade was painted by blending colours through NECRON ABYSS / ICE BLUE, i’ll go into more detail on swords in a future guide.

This guide was written by Owen from Painted Legions, visit his blog for more great guides: Painted Legions

Magnetised Tau Battlesuit Weapons

Tau battlesuits have a huge number of weapons options open to them. So, unless you will be sticking with the same configuration from game to game or don’t mind spending a lot of time (and money) building lots of differently configured battlesuits then you need to find a way to swap weapons and equipment between games. In this guide we’ll be showing you how to use magnets to achieve this. Magnets aren’t the only option but are much neater than the alternatives, blue-tac etc.

To magnetise our battlesuits we’ll be using Blue Demon magnets, these are the best quality we’ve found and are therefore very happy to recommend them, you can pick them up from our store here: Blue Demon Magnets

Materials used in this guide

Magnetised Tau Battlesuits MaterialsIn addition to the obligatory Tau battlesuit we used.

Step 1

Hole Drill in recess where weapon is mounted.

Step 2

Magnet glued in place flush with bottom of recess.

Step 3

Hole drilled in tab that fits in arm recess.

Step 4

M<agnet glued in place flush with top of tab.

Step 5

Both magnets are now in place and weapon will now attach to the arm.

The model is now ready for assembly and the magnets can be painted.

This method can be repeated on both sides of the weapon if required, giving you even more flexibility including the ability to use weapons on different arms.

Painting Bolt Action Plastic Germans

The recently released Germans boxed set was the first plastic kit from the Bolt Action range and we’re great fans of these versatile miniatures.

This guide will demonstrate how to get your Germans ready for the battlefield in 5 easy steps, most of which just take a minute or two and involve minimal painting skill. This guide is also suitable for painting characters but you may wish to add extra detail during the basecoating stage.

Here’s the chap we are going to be painting:

Bolt Action Plastic Germans Step 0

Materials used in this guide:

Bolt Action Plastic Germans
Army Painter Uniform Grey Spray Paint
Citadel Codex Grey Paint
Citadel Fortress Grey Paint
Citadel Chaos Black Paint
Citadel Skull White Paint
Citadel Elf Flesh Paint
Citadel Boltgun Metal Paint
Citadel Scorched Brown Paint
Army Painter Quickshade Dip – Strong Tone
Army Painter Anti-Shine Matt Varnish
Citadel Static Grass
Citadel Modelling Sand
Filla-Glu Clear Superglue
Citadel PVA

Step 1: Undercoat

Bolt Action Plastic Germans Step 1Using the Uniform Grey undercoat spray, apply a even undercoat using sweeping motions across the model or models. Note: Remember to shake the can for at least a minute.

Step 2: Basecoat

Bolt Action Plastic Germans Step 2Using the various Citadel paints, paint the model using flat colours, i.e. using no shading or highlights.

For our German infantryman we used Codex Grey for the helmet, a mix of Chaos Black and Codex Grey for the boots straps and pouches, Fortress Grey for the gaiters, Elf Flesh for the face and hands, Scorched Brown for the rifle stock and shovel handle and finally Boltgun Metal for the metallic parts of the rifle and shovel.

The Uniform Grey undercoat is left as it is to represent the German’s er… uniform, a mixture of 80% Codex Grey & 20% Fortress Grey can be used to touch up any areas that are accidentally painted over.

The only real detail that was added were the eyes and stripes on the collar. The eyes are just Skull White with Chaos Black spots for the pupils, the collar detail was added using Skull White.

Step 3: Quickshade Dip

Bolt Action Plastic Germans Step 3In this step we aim to get all the effects that would normally be achieved through highlighting and washing in one simple step.

Quickshade dip is a pigmented varnish so in this step you are adding shading and protecting your model at the same time. As this is a varnish it must be used after you have completely finished painting your model.

We are using “Strong Tone” Quickshade dip on our German, “Soft Tone” & “Dark Tone” are also available, strong is the medium tone dip.

When using Quickshade dip you should dip your model using a pair of pliers and shake it off 5-6 times and then leave for 24 hours (this is why this is an easy painting guide rather than a quick painting guide :)).

You can also paint Quickshde on, you will need to be quite liberal with the amount used, also brushes will need to be cleaned thoroughly with washing up liquid when you have finished.

Step 4: Basing & Anti-shine Varnish

To base our German Infantryman we first painted the base Scorched Brown and then added some sand to the base using super glue. We finished off by applying PVA to those areas of the base not covered in sand and giving the base a dip in a tub of static grass.

Quickshade dip produces a gloss finish, which most gamers are not too keen on, so to achieve a matt finish we give our model a coat of anti-shine matt varnish. As with the undercoat you should apply a even coat by using sweeping motions across the model or models, once again remembering to shake the can for at least a minute before you start.